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Inspirations
Now What? - Switch Projects

switch kismet 1 This SWITCH TOTE started life as a pair of small, bound sample quilts - neither of which was quite square! All I added in was a couple of pieces of fabric (each 4 x 30 inches) to make long handles. If you prefer short handles on a tote bag, cut two pieces 15 x 4 inches and follow the same directions for construction. I like to use a variegated thread for all the exposed seams on this project - you may as well make a virtue of a necessity! And... well... why not?

Link to a CITY LIGHTS pattern?
switch tote 2
I found the two edges which were the same length and butted up the bound edges against each other
switch tote 3
With the sewing machine set to a short length, wide setting ZigZag stitch I stitched these two edges together
switch tote 4
This image show the first pass through the sewing machine with the ackstitches which I did at each end of the seam
switch tote 5
I stitched over the same seam three times for strength, backstitching at each end each time
switch tote handles
Making Handles
1.
Cut two pieces of fabric 4 inches wide by your desired length. Work on one handle at a time.
2. Press each handle in half, Wrong Sides Together, down its length so it is now 2 inches wide. Unfold and press each half in half again.
3. (This stage is optional, but it improves the strength and makes handles more comfortable to use) Cut two pieces of batting 1¾ inches and 1 inch shorter than your handle fabric pieces
4. Unfold one handle at a time and lay a piece of batting down the centre - note that the batting should be ½ inch shorter than the fabric at each end. Remake the folds so the raw edges and the batting strip are fully enclosed.
5. Pin along the open edge and stitch all along the handle three times for strength. Repeat with the second strip
switch tote 6
Mark the centre of one of the short edges of your panel and position the handles 2 inches either side of this. Fold under the ½-inch of handle with no batting in to neaten the end of the handle and position the fold 1½ inches from the bound edge.
switch tote 7
Check you don't have the handle twisted before stitching in place. Stitch each end with a box and cross motif as shows. This will ensure maximum strength for your handle. Repeat the process with the second handle at the opposite, short, end of the panel.
switch tote 3
To stitch the sides of the bag together, line up the top corners of one side - butting up the bound edges as before. ZigZag stitch with backstitches at each end as you did previously. Stitch over the same seam twice more for strength.
switch tote 8
You will be able to stitch to about 1 to 1½ inches from the corner - that is fine, we will lose that hole in the final seam. Repeat with the other side. This will take a bit of manipulationturn, the bag inside out to make it a bit easier.
switch tote 9
To create a nice, boxy, bottom to your bag, turn it inside out and fold one of the bottom corners so that the side seam runs vertically from the point. Mark a line at right-angles to the seam (note the distance of the line from the point) the longer the line the squarer the base of your bag will be. Stitch on the line twice for strength. Repeat for the second bottom corner checking your marked sewing line is the same distance from the point so your bag is symetrical!
switch tote 10
Don't cut off the points from these last seams - hand stitch them to the base of your bag which will help the bottom to keep it's shape - who doesn't like a shapely bottom!

WELL DONE! You've made a SWITCH bag - use and enjoy... make more?
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